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Piston Wash !
2-stroke engine tuners know that observing the amount of piston wash on the piston dome is a very accurate indicator as to the best fuel-air mixture for maximum power production in competitive situations. These small “clean areas” on top of the pistons, located where the fuel enters the combustion chamber at the transfer ports, are indicative of the amount of excess fuel entering the engine.
The smaller the “wash”, the leaner the fuel-air mixture.
How much is the perfect piston wash ?
You should keep two important items in mind when looking at the wash on top of the pistons....
1. * Engines with flat top pistons can run less wash and not lose performance or detonate.
2. * The domed pistons need to run more wash than a flat top piston in order for the engine to run at peak performance.
* Flat top piston wash, at peak performance, will be the size of the nail on your little finger.
You can get slightly smaller than this, but then the performance will begin to go down hill and the detonation point gets closer.
* Domed style pistons need to have a wash the size of the nail on your thumb or slightly less.
Remember, the amount of piston wash explained above is based on regular octane fuel.
Running race fuel, if you have the compression to burn it, will allow the size of the wash to become less through jetting and not lose as much HP.
If you are into getting the most out of your engines,
use this rule of thumb to keep enough fuel thrown at it and avoid the burndowns.
.
Piston Wash – How Much ?
2-stroke engine tuners know that observing the amount of piston wash on the piston dome is a very accurate indicator as to the best fuel-air mixture for maximum power production in competitive situations. These small “clean areas” on top of the pistons, located where the fuel enters the combustion chamber at the transfer ports, are indicative of the amount of excess fuel entering the engine.
The smaller the “wash”, the leaner the fuel-air mixture.
How much is the perfect piston wash ?
You should keep two important items in mind when looking at the wash on top of the pistons....
1. * Engines with flat top pistons can run less wash and not lose performance or detonate.
2. * The domed pistons need to run more wash than a flat top piston in order for the engine to run at peak performance.
* Flat top piston wash, at peak performance, will be the size of the nail on your little finger.
You can get slightly smaller than this, but then the performance will begin to go down hill and the detonation point gets closer.
* Domed style pistons need to have a wash the size of the nail on your thumb or slightly less.
Remember, the amount of piston wash explained above is based on regular octane fuel.
Running race fuel, if you have the compression to burn it, will allow the size of the wash to become less through jetting and not lose as much HP.
If you are into getting the most out of your engines,
use this rule of thumb to keep enough fuel thrown at it and avoid the burndowns.
.
Vatten på stiftet och vatten i cylindern, var kommer det ifrån?
Du kör väl inte med filter på gasarna? Orginalluftburken fungerar i 99 fall av 100 bättre.
Du kör väl inte med filter på gasarna? Orginalluftburken fungerar i 99 fall av 100 bättre.
Jag kör med originalluftburk! Packningarna runt tändstifthålet var dåliga, och det har läkt ut avggaser i glykolen, så den var grå. Men det konstiga var att det inte har försvunnit nått vatten alls
Hmm kan väll vara så, men känns ju som att glykolen skulle vart jävligt tjock då??
Ja visst är det lätt att säga så! Men det är fan inte så ***** kul att slänga ut 1000:- igen om 20mil!
Yes, har kollat igenom förgasarna, lufskruvarna var utskruvade 3varv. Är det bra?
Får kolla mer imorn, nu knäcker jag några bärs :beer:
Ska det bara vara 1.5varv? Det enda som verkar vara bytt är lågfarten till 15 istället för 17.5. Och den dricker ungefär dubbelt så lite nu.Bränsleskruvar är de
Har jag nicasil i mina cylindrar? Har inte fått kläm om det var nicasil på 500an. Om det skulle vara det, så kan man hona med sten nr500 om jag kom ihåg rätt?
Jag kör på 480 MJ, 15 PJ och bränsleskruven 1,5 varv ut. Funkar mycke bra för mig iaf, 470 var i hållet på snålt, vill vara safe.
Testa att kolla med en magnet i cylindern om den är magnetisk, icke magnetisk = nicasil.
Att horna en nicasil cylinder går bara fint tror jag, är dock inte 100.
Precis. Men ska kolla oljepumpsaxeln också, så att den snurrar när motorn går runt. För det gjorde vattenpumpen iallafall